A Day in Oban

The lovely town of Oban, nestled in a scenic bay and gazing out at an island-dotted horizon, is the perfect place to unwind.  Known as the 'Gateway to the Isles' and the 'Seafood Capital of Scotland', this pretty coastal town is only a twenty minute drive from Taynuilt and has a host of attractions and sights to discover.  If you're looking for ideas on how to spend a day in Oban, here are a few suggestions.

Head to Dunollie Museum, Castle and Grounds in the morning to delve into its fascinating and rich history and soak up some beautiful views.  The castle is only a two minute drive from the centre of Oban and a twenty minute walk for those keen to take in some sights on foot.  If you decide to walk, head north from Oban town centre along the shoreline, past Corran Halls and take the old carriage track across the road from the War Memorial.  (You can also keep walking along the coastline and take a right just before the castle).

Dunollie stands on Bronze Age foundations and the castle that remains today dates from the 15th century.  It is the ancestral home of Clan MacDougall, and has been occupied by chiefs of the clan for around 900 years.  Explore the 1745 House Museum to find out the story of the castle and the MacDougall family, enjoy a stroll in the castle grounds and visit the castle site to bask in stunning views towards the islands.  If you're in need of a morning coffee, there is also a cafe which is open daily.

Walk back into the centre of town for a spot of lunch at Bossards Patisserie on Combie Street.  This charming coffee shop is ideal for a light lunch, with a range of mouth-watering cakes and pastries as well as home cooked soups and delicious sandwiches.

After lunch, why not explore one of Scotland's oldest distilleries?  Established in 1794 Oban Distillery is also one of the smallest distilleries in the country, with two pot stills.  The distillery is near the centre of town, just off George Street.  Visitors can learn about the production of its classic malt during a distillery tour, as well as enjoy a complimentary dram of Oban 14 year old West Highland Malt.  (Advance booking for the tour is advisable).

Not far from Oban Distillery, you'll find the Oban War and Peace Museum which is brimming with interesting photographs and historical artefacts.  It's a great place to find out more about local history, including the fishing and maritime industries, and the building of the iconic McCaig's Tower - the Colosseum-style building that sits like a watch-guard over Oban Bay.

For an afternoon treat, head to the Chocolate Factory on the Esplanade, renowned for its scrumptious hot chocolate and handmade chocolates, where you can also admire the stunning views across Oban Bay.

To end the afternoon, take a walk or drive up to McCaigs Tower.  A word of warning if you decide to walk, the hills are quite steep - but the gorgeous views over Oban and the islands of Kerrera, Mull and Lismore are more than worth the effort.  The tower was built in 1897 by a local banker and is now a public garden.  It is a must-see whilst in Oban for the sweeping west coast vista.

If you want a slightly different angle, you can also drive up to Pulpit Hill Viewpoint to enjoy views across Oban and towards McCaig's Tower.

End your day in Oban with a seafood dinner at the Waterfront Restaurant.  This fantastic restaurant is located on the Railway Pier, with picturesque views, and specialises in quality, fresh seafood.  A fitting way to top off your day in the country's 'Seafood Capital'.

Exploring the Isle of Easdale

Dotting the edge of the Isle of Seil like a full stop is the charming Isle of Easdale.  Just under an hour's drive from Taynuilt, the former slate islands of Seil and Easdale are fascinating places to explore.

The Isle of Seil is separated from the mainland by a sliver of sea and reached via the 18th century 'Bridge over the Atlantic' (otherwise known as Clachan Bridge).

The main village on Seil is Ellenabeich, with its pretty lines of whitewashed cottages built in the 18th century for those working in the slate quarries.  It is also the stepping stone for hopping over to Easdale; the car-free and smallest permanently inhabited Inner Hebridean island.

A small ferry whisks you from Ellenabeich to Easdale in under five minutes.  Easdale was at the heart of the Scottish slate mining industry and there are reminders of its past everywhere you turn.

Once on Easdale you can take in the beautiful views and slate-filled landscape by walking around the island, visit the award-winning Easdale Island Folk Museum and enjoy lunch or homebaking in the excellent Puffer Bar and Restaurant.

The Easdale Island Folk Museum (open March - mid October) is a great place to learn more about the island's past, with displays on the slate industry, geology, boats and much more.  There is also a craft area selling slate goods, locally handmade crafts, preserves, cards and wooden furniture. 

No trip to Easdale is complete without a visit to the Puffer Bar and Restaurant.  With its lovely sea views, friendly atmosphere and fresh, locally sourced food it's a great place to enjoy a drink or meal while you wait for the ferry back to Ellenabeich.

On the last Sunday of September each year the island becomes the arena for the World Stone Skimming Championships - where better to skim stones than an old slate quarry?!  Anyone of any age can compete, and competitors can register on the day (Sunday 28th) at the Easdale Island Community Hall.  There is also a Pre-Skim Party on Saturday 27th in the Community Hall, with live music and a licensed bar.

Ellenabeich on the Isle of Seil is also home to Seafari Adventures - read more about their wildlife watching and Corrywreckan whirlpool boat trips here.

Cycling on the Isle of Lismore

With its stunning views and low-lying landscape, the Isle of Lismore is a wonderful place to explore by bike.  This scenic island (which means 'big garden' in Gaelic) is ten miles long by one mile wide and offers sweeping views of Loch Linnhe as well as Mull and Ardnamurchan.  I recently enjoyed a leisurely visit, but a great day trip would be to cycle on the island.

There are two ferries that take you to the Isle of Lismore - a car ferry from Oban and a passenger ferry from Port Appin.  The Port Appin route is popular for day trips and bikes are carried free on the ferry.  You could also start the day with a coffee at Castle Stalker View, about 10 minutes by car from the ferry terminal.

The journey across to Lismore from Port Appin takes around 10 minutes and arrives at the northern tip of the island.  If you don't have your own bike, you can hire one from Lismore Bike Hire or Port Appin Bike Hire.  Heading south from the ferry terminal leads you past the villages of Port Ramsay and onto Clachan; just before Clachan you'll find this 13th century church.

13th century Lismore Church

Shortly after Clachan, you'll come to the fascinating Lismore Gaelic Heritage Centre.  This wonderful centre is a great place to learn more about the history of the island, telling the story of its past and its people.  The reconstructed 19th century cottage gives an insight into what life would have been like around the time of the Clearances.  To add to the atmosphere, you can hear Gaelic being spoken as you walk around the cottage.

Reconstructed cottar's cottage at the Lismore Gaelic Heritage Centre

As well as the museum and cottage, the Heritage Centre is also home to a shop and the Liosbeag Cafe, where you can refuel for the rest of your cycle with a delicious lunch.

Enjoy the beautiful scenery as you journey around the south of the island, soaking up the views towards Oban and Mull.  Make sure you visit the ruins of the 13th century Achanduin Castle, overlooking the Bernera island.

An ideal way to end your day is with dinner or a drink at The Pierhouse Hotel, conveniently located at the head of the Port Appin pier and known for its wonderful seafood.  

Day Trips from Airdeny: Kilmartin Glen Museum

Here on the Airdeny blog I like to share suggestions for things to see and do in the Taynuilt area to help with planning your Argyll holiday or just to give you a bit of holiday inspiration.  In the next few blog posts I'll outline some day trips from Airdeny Chalets; up first is a journey back in time at the Kilmartin Museum.

From the chalet park you can follow the scenic Glen Lonan Road (where you can soak up the tranquil scenes of this quiet glen), before skirting Loch Nell and joining the A816 to head south.  The road then snakes down to gorgeous Loch Melfort, before weaving down to Kilmartin.  The journey will take just over an hour (or slightly longer if you like to make photo stops).  Alternatively, you can follow a circular route by taking the B845 just after heading east out of Taynuilt, leading you along the long arm of Loch Awe to Kilmartin (taking around an hour by car).

Glen Lonan

Kilmartin Glen is a fascinating prehistoric landscape, with more than 800 ancient monuments in the area from standing stones and stone circles to rock art.  All of the archaeological objects that are found in the mid-Argyll area are housed at the Kilmartin Museum - a wonderful place to delve into the past.

As well as enjoying the display of artefacts in the museum gallery, you can explore the glen in which they were found.  There are guided walks in August and September, starting from the museum and taking between two to two and a half hours.  (You need to sign up at the museum reception).  The guided walks take you to some of Kilmartin Glen's most important historical sites, such as Temple Wood, the Nether Largie Standing Stones, and the Glebe Cairns.  It is a fantastic opportunity to learn more about the history of the landscape from the volunteer guides, as well as appreciate the beauty of the glen.

Kilmartin Museum also has an award-winning cafe, so you can enjoy a spot of lunch or coffee and home baking, plus a gift and bookshop to browse.  It is a trip that I highly recommend to guests at Airdeny - and I also suggest returning north along the A816 to end the day with fish and chips in Oban, and a stroll around the harbour.

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Kilmartin Museum is open every day from March to the end of October, 10am to 5pm.  There are reduced opening hours between November and Christmas.  Tickets cost £5 for adults, £2 for children and there are family tickets available.

Tralee Beach, Benderloch

Here at Airdeny we're spoilt for choice with beautiful walks in the area.  From peaceful forest circuits to a stroll along the shores of Loch Etive there are a number of picturesque places to soak up some stunning Argyll scenery.  For a relaxing beach walk, head north over the Connel Bridge to the village of Benderloch, nestled beside Ardmucknish Bay.  Make sure you combine your walk with a coffee or lunch at the lovely Ben Lora Cafe and Bookshop (the scones are delicious!).

From the cafe it is a short walk to the beach along a signposted path.

This pretty beach offers scenic views across the bay towards Dunstaffnage and is a quiet place in which to bask in the coastal scenery.  From the Benderloch direction you arrive at the shingle part of the beach, with sand dunes at the other end of its crescent.  

As it's tucked away from the roadside, this beach is a little hidden gem - well worth a visit on a journey along the A828 or a short trip from your base at Airdeny Chalets. 

Castle Stalker View & Wildlife Hub

Perched on an islet where Loch Laich reaches out to Loch Linnhe, Castle Stalker is oh-so-picturesque.  Wrapped in layers of history as well as tranquil surroundings, this 15th century tower house has its origins in a 14th century fort built by the Macdougall clan.  King James IV used the castle as his base during hunting trips in the area around the end of the 15th century, and it spent much of its history in the hands of the Stewarts of Appin, until a drunken episode in 1620 with the Campbells when the Stewart Chief exchanged it for a boat (!).  The castle was abandoned by the Campbells in 1800.

Today it is owned privately but there are limited tours in the summer.

The perfect place to bask in the castle views, with Loch Linnhe spilling out behind it, is at Castle Stalker View.  With a lovely shop and cafe, it is a great place to enjoy a spot of lunch, or home-baking and a coffee during a journey break along the coast, or to immerse yourself in the panoramic views unfolding from the viewpoint, a short walk from the cafe.

Now as well as enjoying the castle views and the delicious offerings of the cafe, you can also get an insight into wildlife in Appin and Argyll at the brand new Wildlife Hub, in partnership with Philip Price of Loch Visions photography.  The Hub has live nest cams on Sea Eagles, Barn Owls and Herons, and there is also a 20 minute wildlife film in a mini-IMAX theatre that highlights the area's wonderful wildlife.

Photo courtesy of Philip Price

Castle Stalker lies 25 miles north of Oban and around 20 miles from Taynuilt.

Ardchattan Priory and Gardens

It's easy to see why monks would pick this peaceful loch-side setting for the site of a priory.  Tucked into the northern shores of Loch Etive, Ardchattan Priory basks in scenic views and offers tranquil surroundings in which to wander, with beautiful gardens and thirteenth century priory ruins to explore.

Founded in 1230 (originally just a small church with some domestic buildings) and rebuilt in the 15th century, the priory became the property of Archibald Campbell in 1602 and has remained with Clan Campell ever since.  The priory ruins and tomb stones are now in the care of Historic Scotland.

Even the journey to the priory is peaceful, snaking alongside Loch Etive.  (From the Taynuilt direction, take a right when you cross Connel Bridge and follow the quiet road as it hugs the shoreline).  

From the car park you can loop round in either a clockwise or anti-clockwise direction: clockwise takes you past the wild garden and shrubs before reaching the chapel ruins; anti-clockwise leads you along the Monk's Walk (stunning in spring time with the azaleas and rhododendrons) and through the main garden.  Here you can enjoy beautiful views of Loch Etive (with the private house standing behind you) and take a moment just to appreciate its idyllic setting.  The priory ruins lie on the other side of a grey door in the top right hand corner of the main garden.  

There is a lot to see in a small space - from the chapel ruins to carved stones.  The priory grounds were used as a burial ground until 1906 and the scattered gravestones skull and crossbones on the chapel walls do add a haunting feel to the crumbled ruins.

Whether you want to admire the gardens or take a closer look at the stones and ruins, Ardchattan Priory is an atmospheric, and extremely peaceful, place to visit - and you will most likely be able to enjoy its contemplative silence to yourself.

For more information on the gardens and visiting, take a look at www.ardchattan.co.uk.