Carnasserie Castle

If you love delving into the past, there are plenty of fascinating castles and historic sites in the area you can explore, from Kilchurn Castle perched on Loch Awe to Ardchattan Priory on the edge of Loch Etive.

I recently wrote a post on visiting Kilmartin Glen and the prehistoric landscape of Mid Argyll is a must if you're interested in finding out more about Scotland's past.  As well as visiting Kilmartin House Museum, you can discover the many standing stones, cairns and monuments scattered around the landscape.

Another historic point of interest in this area is Carnasserie Castle,  a 16th century tower house located on a hill overlooking Kilmartin Glen.  There is parking at the bottom of the hill and it's a short, quite steep, walk up to the ruins, which are free to explore.

The castle was once home to the first Protestant Bishop of the Isles, John Carswell who translated 'Book of our Common Order' by John Knox into Gaelic (the first book to be printed in Gaelic).

Built in the 1560s it is a good example of Renaissance architecture having only ever been altered slightly in the 17th century.  I liked how decorative even the gun and pistol holes were in the outer wall.

The atmospheric ruins give you a good idea of what the castle would have been like in the past.  The five storey tower house was combined with a three storey hall house: on the lower levels you can explore the remains of a kitchen and cellars, with a large fireplace; the large hall is above, connected to a drawing room in the tower house; and there are stairs that wind up to upper levels where the bedrooms would have been located.  

As well as exploring the castle interior, one of the highlights of a visit to Carnasserie Castle is the view from the top of the ruins (there are narrow stairs on either side of the castle), where you can take in the sweeping views of the surrounding countryside.  

With its idyllic setting and interesting history, a visit to Carnasserie Castle is a must if you're in the area.

An Autumn Drive to Mid Argyll

I recently took advantage of some glorious autumn sunshine to show some visitors the beauty of the surrounding area.  We followed the B845 through Kilchrenan, along the edge of Loch Awe and down to Kilmartin for lunch.  After a walk to stretch our legs, we returned to Taynuilt via the A816 to Oban and the A85, in a loop that takes just over two hours to drive.

It was the perfect day to soak up the spectacular Oban and mid-Argyll scenery, with a landscape cloaked in blue skies and radiating the last of autumn's fiery shades.

We left the chalet park basking under the blue skies and frost carpeting the ground.  From Taynuilt we took a right onto the B845 (signposted Kilchrenan), which takes you past the Glen Nant Nature Reserve.  The landscape then opened up, with sweeping views across a rugged landscape, wisps of cloud entangled in the hills. 

Shortly after driving through picturesque Kilchrenan we had our first view looking back towards Loch Awe, backed by mountains.  It was a truly breathtaking sight.

The road continues alongside the loch, with lovely scenery of both the loch and the autumnal forests as you wind south.

When we reached the A816 we headed to Kilmartin.  The Kilmartin House Museum and Cafe is a wonderful place for lunch if you're in the area.  There is seating downstairs that looks out onto the surrounding fields and the Glebe Cairn, and cosy seating upstairs where you can access Wi-Fi.  There is even a yurt near the entrance of the cafe with outside seating, decorated with bunting.  We enjoyed the soup and delicious foccacia sandwiches - but I wish I'd left room for some of their home-baking!

Kilmartin Glen is dotted with ancient monuments and is a fascinating place to explore.  You can pick up a map detailing the historic sites from the shop at the cafe (where you also pay if you want to visit the Kilmartin Museum).  We drank in the afternoon sun whilst looking at the Nether Largie Standing Stones and Temple Wood stones.

We left the atmospheric landscape behind and drove north towards Oban, admiring the views of Loch Melfort, shining like a piece of glass.   Just past the dam at Kilmelford the trees reflected in the still water in a splash of brilliant yellow.

Although now coming to the end of autumn's beautiful displays, the palette of Argyll is still captivating: rusty browns, the last glow of yellow, the silver of bare trees streaking the green.

Before long we were in Oban, its bay sparkling in the last of the day's light.  On the last stretch between Connel and Taynuilt the sight of a full moon reflecting in Loch Etive was the perfect way to end the day.

Winter Festival Fun in Oban

This winter why not embrace this corner of the west coast, wrapped in its gorgeous winter blanket?  If you book a self-catering break at Airdeny Chalets this November, here are a few ideas of what you could do during your holiday.

The Oban Winter Festival, 21st to 30th November, is a winter celebration packed full of festive fun and family entertainment.  Events include a Scottish Food and Craft Market, a Reindeer Parade, fireworks and light show, ceilidhs, performers, lantern parades, workshops and, of course, Santa. The programme also features new events for 2014 including a St Andrew's Day HaggisFest and Tartan Dash, haggis hurling, and a science and circus show.

Buy some hand-crafted Christmas gifts, join a Gaelic singing or wreath workshop, join in the lantern parade, listen to live music and enjoy the festive atmosphere of this wonderful ten day event.

Photo credit Oban Winter Festival

On Sunday 30th November the Scottish Sea Life Sanctuary will host a Winter Festival Funday at Sealife Centre, where you can visit Santa in his grotto and enjoy some festive games.

Curl up with a hot chocolate in one of the area's many lovely cafes.  From the Ben Lora Cafe at Benderloch and Castle Stalker View, to the Oban Chocolate Co. Cafe on the pier in Oban harbour and the Robin's Nest Tearoom in Taynuilt, there are plenty of places to enjoy a warming drink and a minced pie or two.

Winter is a great time to immerse yourself in wonderful woodland scenery and there are plenty of places nearby to enjoy a winter walk, such as Fearnoch Forest, the Glen Nant National Nature Reserve and Sutherland's Grove.

Or you could simply soak up the peacefulness of the chalet park and enjoy views of Ben Cruachan in its winter cloak.

Take a look at our availability page to view vacancies for the winter months and start planning your winter getaway.

A Day in Oban

The lovely town of Oban, nestled in a scenic bay and gazing out at an island-dotted horizon, is the perfect place to unwind.  Known as the 'Gateway to the Isles' and the 'Seafood Capital of Scotland', this pretty coastal town is only a twenty minute drive from Taynuilt and has a host of attractions and sights to discover.  If you're looking for ideas on how to spend a day in Oban, here are a few suggestions.

Head to Dunollie Museum, Castle and Grounds in the morning to delve into its fascinating and rich history and soak up some beautiful views.  The castle is only a two minute drive from the centre of Oban and a twenty minute walk for those keen to take in some sights on foot.  If you decide to walk, head north from Oban town centre along the shoreline, past Corran Halls and take the old carriage track across the road from the War Memorial.  (You can also keep walking along the coastline and take a right just before the castle).

Dunollie stands on Bronze Age foundations and the castle that remains today dates from the 15th century.  It is the ancestral home of Clan MacDougall, and has been occupied by chiefs of the clan for around 900 years.  Explore the 1745 House Museum to find out the story of the castle and the MacDougall family, enjoy a stroll in the castle grounds and visit the castle site to bask in stunning views towards the islands.  If you're in need of a morning coffee, there is also a cafe which is open daily.

Walk back into the centre of town for a spot of lunch at Bossards Patisserie on Combie Street.  This charming coffee shop is ideal for a light lunch, with a range of mouth-watering cakes and pastries as well as home cooked soups and delicious sandwiches.

After lunch, why not explore one of Scotland's oldest distilleries?  Established in 1794 Oban Distillery is also one of the smallest distilleries in the country, with two pot stills.  The distillery is near the centre of town, just off George Street.  Visitors can learn about the production of its classic malt during a distillery tour, as well as enjoy a complimentary dram of Oban 14 year old West Highland Malt.  (Advance booking for the tour is advisable).

Not far from Oban Distillery, you'll find the Oban War and Peace Museum which is brimming with interesting photographs and historical artefacts.  It's a great place to find out more about local history, including the fishing and maritime industries, and the building of the iconic McCaig's Tower - the Colosseum-style building that sits like a watch-guard over Oban Bay.

For an afternoon treat, head to the Chocolate Factory on the Esplanade, renowned for its scrumptious hot chocolate and handmade chocolates, where you can also admire the stunning views across Oban Bay.

To end the afternoon, take a walk or drive up to McCaigs Tower.  A word of warning if you decide to walk, the hills are quite steep - but the gorgeous views over Oban and the islands of Kerrera, Mull and Lismore are more than worth the effort.  The tower was built in 1897 by a local banker and is now a public garden.  It is a must-see whilst in Oban for the sweeping west coast vista.

If you want a slightly different angle, you can also drive up to Pulpit Hill Viewpoint to enjoy views across Oban and towards McCaig's Tower.

End your day in Oban with a seafood dinner at the Waterfront Restaurant.  This fantastic restaurant is located on the Railway Pier, with picturesque views, and specialises in quality, fresh seafood.  A fitting way to top off your day in the country's 'Seafood Capital'.

Exploring the Isle of Easdale

Dotting the edge of the Isle of Seil like a full stop is the charming Isle of Easdale.  Just under an hour's drive from Taynuilt, the former slate islands of Seil and Easdale are fascinating places to explore.

The Isle of Seil is separated from the mainland by a sliver of sea and reached via the 18th century 'Bridge over the Atlantic' (otherwise known as Clachan Bridge).

The main village on Seil is Ellenabeich, with its pretty lines of whitewashed cottages built in the 18th century for those working in the slate quarries.  It is also the stepping stone for hopping over to Easdale; the car-free and smallest permanently inhabited Inner Hebridean island.

A small ferry whisks you from Ellenabeich to Easdale in under five minutes.  Easdale was at the heart of the Scottish slate mining industry and there are reminders of its past everywhere you turn.

Once on Easdale you can take in the beautiful views and slate-filled landscape by walking around the island, visit the award-winning Easdale Island Folk Museum and enjoy lunch or homebaking in the excellent Puffer Bar and Restaurant.

The Easdale Island Folk Museum (open March - mid October) is a great place to learn more about the island's past, with displays on the slate industry, geology, boats and much more.  There is also a craft area selling slate goods, locally handmade crafts, preserves, cards and wooden furniture. 

No trip to Easdale is complete without a visit to the Puffer Bar and Restaurant.  With its lovely sea views, friendly atmosphere and fresh, locally sourced food it's a great place to enjoy a drink or meal while you wait for the ferry back to Ellenabeich.

On the last Sunday of September each year the island becomes the arena for the World Stone Skimming Championships - where better to skim stones than an old slate quarry?!  Anyone of any age can compete, and competitors can register on the day (Sunday 28th) at the Easdale Island Community Hall.  There is also a Pre-Skim Party on Saturday 27th in the Community Hall, with live music and a licensed bar.

Ellenabeich on the Isle of Seil is also home to Seafari Adventures - read more about their wildlife watching and Corrywreckan whirlpool boat trips here.

Cycling on the Isle of Lismore

With its stunning views and low-lying landscape, the Isle of Lismore is a wonderful place to explore by bike.  This scenic island (which means 'big garden' in Gaelic) is ten miles long by one mile wide and offers sweeping views of Loch Linnhe as well as Mull and Ardnamurchan.  I recently enjoyed a leisurely visit, but a great day trip would be to cycle on the island.

There are two ferries that take you to the Isle of Lismore - a car ferry from Oban and a passenger ferry from Port Appin.  The Port Appin route is popular for day trips and bikes are carried free on the ferry.  You could also start the day with a coffee at Castle Stalker View, about 10 minutes by car from the ferry terminal.

The journey across to Lismore from Port Appin takes around 10 minutes and arrives at the northern tip of the island.  If you don't have your own bike, you can hire one from Lismore Bike Hire or Port Appin Bike Hire.  Heading south from the ferry terminal leads you past the villages of Port Ramsay and onto Clachan; just before Clachan you'll find this 13th century church.

13th century Lismore Church

Shortly after Clachan, you'll come to the fascinating Lismore Gaelic Heritage Centre.  This wonderful centre is a great place to learn more about the history of the island, telling the story of its past and its people.  The reconstructed 19th century cottage gives an insight into what life would have been like around the time of the Clearances.  To add to the atmosphere, you can hear Gaelic being spoken as you walk around the cottage.

Reconstructed cottar's cottage at the Lismore Gaelic Heritage Centre

As well as the museum and cottage, the Heritage Centre is also home to a shop and the Liosbeag Cafe, where you can refuel for the rest of your cycle with a delicious lunch.

Enjoy the beautiful scenery as you journey around the south of the island, soaking up the views towards Oban and Mull.  Make sure you visit the ruins of the 13th century Achanduin Castle, overlooking the Bernera island.

An ideal way to end your day is with dinner or a drink at The Pierhouse Hotel, conveniently located at the head of the Port Appin pier and known for its wonderful seafood.  

Day Trips from Airdeny: Kilmartin Glen Museum

Here on the Airdeny blog I like to share suggestions for things to see and do in the Taynuilt area to help with planning your Argyll holiday or just to give you a bit of holiday inspiration.  In the next few blog posts I'll outline some day trips from Airdeny Chalets; up first is a journey back in time at the Kilmartin Museum.

From the chalet park you can follow the scenic Glen Lonan Road (where you can soak up the tranquil scenes of this quiet glen), before skirting Loch Nell and joining the A816 to head south.  The road then snakes down to gorgeous Loch Melfort, before weaving down to Kilmartin.  The journey will take just over an hour (or slightly longer if you like to make photo stops).  Alternatively, you can follow a circular route by taking the B845 just after heading east out of Taynuilt, leading you along the long arm of Loch Awe to Kilmartin (taking around an hour by car).

Glen Lonan

Kilmartin Glen is a fascinating prehistoric landscape, with more than 800 ancient monuments in the area from standing stones and stone circles to rock art.  All of the archaeological objects that are found in the mid-Argyll area are housed at the Kilmartin Museum - a wonderful place to delve into the past.

As well as enjoying the display of artefacts in the museum gallery, you can explore the glen in which they were found.  There are guided walks in August and September, starting from the museum and taking between two to two and a half hours.  (You need to sign up at the museum reception).  The guided walks take you to some of Kilmartin Glen's most important historical sites, such as Temple Wood, the Nether Largie Standing Stones, and the Glebe Cairns.  It is a fantastic opportunity to learn more about the history of the landscape from the volunteer guides, as well as appreciate the beauty of the glen.

Kilmartin Museum also has an award-winning cafe, so you can enjoy a spot of lunch or coffee and home baking, plus a gift and bookshop to browse.  It is a trip that I highly recommend to guests at Airdeny - and I also suggest returning north along the A816 to end the day with fish and chips in Oban, and a stroll around the harbour.

. 

Kilmartin Museum is open every day from March to the end of October, 10am to 5pm.  There are reduced opening hours between November and Christmas.  Tickets cost £5 for adults, £2 for children and there are family tickets available.