A Bike Ride Through Glen Lonan: Photos & Video

Guest post by Emma Gibb

I like to think of it now as The West Highland Cow Way (even though the Highland Cows were congregated only around one section of our hour cycle).  A corridor that snakes between rugged hills, the road that weaves through Glen Lonan leads you into peaceful mountain landscape.  With many more cows than cars, it was also the perfect place for our first family bike ride.

The gorgeous Glen Lonan is on the doorstep of Airdeny Chalets, near Taynuilt (what a location - in the shadow of the mighty Ben Cruachan, a short drive to the shores of Loch Etive and on the edge of this scenic glen).  We opted to explore the glen by bike, despite the showery forecast, but didn't even need to leave the chalet park to organise bike hire.  RCS Cycles is based further up the road we intended to cycle and the owner Nick delivered the bikes down to the chalet park for us in the morning and picked them up that afternoon.

I'm pretty sure from his squeals of 'weeeeee' that my son enjoyed the bike ride as much as us.  Once we'd climbed the first initial hill the road levelled off; winding past the occasional house and farm, and forested landscapes.  We cycled slowly, soaking up the lovely scenery (nothing at all to do with being out of breath!).  After about half an hour, we arrived at the bottom of a hill where Highland Cows wandered freely. I'm sure our son would have happily watched them all afternoon, completely entranced by the sight of so many cows inches from the road.  And not just your traditional toffee coloured cows either - it was the first time I'd come across white and black Highland Cows.  I have to say, I probably did cycle ever so slightly faster past the very large white one (pictured below)...

After crossing the river and attempting a few more hills, we took a sudden (though short-lived) shower as a sign to turn back.  It felt more of an incline on the return journey, but there are plenty of hills to whizz down on the approach to the chalet park. 

It was a wonderful place to just enjoy some peace and quiet, and I would have loved to have cycled further along the road (which eventually arrives in Oban).  I'll save that for next time, though...

Why not see for yourself?  Emma also shared this short video clip of her Glen Lonan bike ride.

  You can read more from Emma on her blog - Emma Explores Scotland.

On A Seafari Adventure

Scottish blogger Emma Gibb recently made Airdeny her base for a bit of West Coast exploration, and has shared a series of guest posts with us about her experiences in the Taynuilt area.  First up is her boat trip with Seafari Adventures out to the Corryvreckan Whirlpool.

Corryvreckan Wildlife Tour - Guest Post by Emma Gibb

I clung for dear life to begin with, knuckles white at the sudden speed with which we were literally flying across the water.  We bumped over the waves with such force that it felt as if we were skimming over a hard surface, on a sea turned to stone.  I soon adjusted to the speed with which we were zipping along, drinking in the rugged island-dotted seascape and focussing on the search for wildlife in the waters around me. 

I was on board one of the Seafari ribs, bound for the Corryvreckan Whirlpool (the third largest in the world) that lies to the north of Jura.  The skies had been sea-like throughout the morning, moving in swells of grey.  I had asked my toddler to blow the clouds away for mummy's boat trip (which he dutifully tried to do, bless him, blowing at the sky as if it was hot soup) and although there were a few pockets of brightness when we set off, they moved in and out of the greyness throughout the two hour trip, as elusive as the seals that darted and ducked between the waves.

I can honestly say that I didn't mind when the occasional shower rolled over us.  As much as I would have loved the sun to warm my face and light this new landscape, it seemed fitting that I experienced an area of Scotland known for its slate quarries when greyness gripped the day.  The wildlife tour leaves from Ellenabeich on the Isle of Seil, a short hop from Easdale, and passes the islands of Belnahua and Luing - all of which were 'Slate Islands' (you can find out more about the history of the slate industry in the Easdale Island Folk Museum and the Slate Islands Heritage Trust in Ellenabeich).  Being a history geek, I loved that the wildlife tour combined local history - our guide, Ben, highlighted points of interest and fed us snippets of island stories throughout our journey.  My favourites were the tales of a white sand beach that was blown up to stop people from visiting its lovely shore, the lighthouse-keeper who decided when his daughter went to school based on the roughness of the sea, and the boys on Belnahua whose job it was to throw slate stones at hungry seagulls when herring was washed up on the beach.  

We journeyed down the corridor between Easdale and Jura, slowing down to spot wildlife (red deer, common seals, gannets, shags, porpoises, wild goats and - with binoculars - a sea eagle's nest).  Just north of the island of Scarba we were given a taste of the whirlpool to come, whisked through Little Corryvreckan (or 'Grey Dogs' as this passage is also known).  

  

Instead of directing my camera solely towards the water, I found myself taking photo after photo of the land - with the afternoon soaked in slate-grey, it made the oranges and yellows of the hills leap out at me.  I was almost spell-bound by the colours of the landscape; the lined rock and leopard-print hillsides.  Ok, I admit I would not complain one bit if the skies had been blue behind the hunched island mounds; if the deep green of the sea had shimmered in sunlight; if the sea spray that showered me during the boat ride had been dried by the warm caress of sun rays.  But actually, the landscape suited this weather; the rugged land dotted with cottage ruins, the layered colours of the rock, the crags up which red deer scrambled, the whispers of once busy slate quarries.. it made it all even more atmospheric.  Ben at one point said of the forest we were drifting in front of that it was thought to 'resemble what the forests of Scotland would have once looked like’.  And it did make me imagine days gone by (the same way my trip through Milford Sound did in New Zealand – incidentally, also on a very cloudy day).  If, I thought, it looked this beautiful on a grey day, how mesmerising must it be in the sunshine... 

Just before we arrived at the Corryvreckan Whirlpool, we spotted a number of porpoise fins arching out of the water (unfortunately, unlike dolphins, porpoises are content to just poke their fin above water and don't leap out for the delight of happy-snappers like me).  It was wonderful to see them quite close to the boat (which only happened when my camera was lowered, of course) and I was still scouring the waters for more fins when I noticed that the water was incredibly calm in the pool around us but waves were breaking at its edge.   This was the famous whirlpool - and it is every bit as amazing as I had heard.  Again, the murky skies added to the experience, with sudden brightness clashing eerily with a stream of dark clouds as I watched the tides colliding.  It is described as 'a step in the Atlantic' and although my photos don't do it justice, it is, extraordinarily, on two levels.  It is quite a sight to behold - almost as if there's an invisible barrier between the flat calm section and the ripples and waves.  With food swirled around by the tidal activity, it was no surprise that this was a great place for wildlife spotting - as well as the porpoises there were gannets circling overhead and a seal that bobbed alongside us.  

Our journey to Easdale looped around the back of Scarba and Lunga (where I was so absorbed in the scenery, my brain didn't clock the speed at which we were approaching the island until moments before the driver took a sharp turn; tipping the rib on its side and almost sending my camera to a watery grave) and then wove back through Fladda and Belnahua. Time blurred along with the landscape and before I knew it we had returned to the lovely slate pier at Ellenabeich.  I'm not sure what left me more exhilarated - the speed with which we took in the scenery or the scenery itself...  I loved every minute of the wildlife tour and hope to return one day to do the same journey again; and maybe next time the sunshine will paint the island passage in a whole new palette of colours.

Many thanks to Ben and Steve for a truly breath-taking trip!

You can read more from Emma on her blog - Emma Explores Scotland - and follow her on Twitter @emmajrgibb.

The Colour of May

In recent weeks we've enjoyed sunny blue skies over in the Taynuilt area of Argyll - but even on the mixed days (like the last few) where the sunshine has to fight to push through the clouds, the world is awash with spring colour and the chalet park is lit in shades of blossom, azaleas and rhododendrons.

It is a lovely time of year to explore the gardens of Argyll, with the full bloom of azaleas and rhododendrons peaking in the next couple of weeks, and carpets of bluebells lining the roads and walkways.

I wish I had a photo to share of the beautiful Great Spotted Woodpecker who frequents our bird feeders but alas he remains camera shy.  I was, however, able to snap the cheeky squirrel who manages to squeeze inside the 'squirrel-proof' bird feeders.  And perhaps (as in the photos below) there is nothing more lovely than the lush green of spring trees against a blue sky...

Although the bluebells in the chalet park are waiting patiently to throw down their purple carpet (being that little bit higher we are slightly later for bluebells bursting into colour), you can spot them all around the area (there's a lovely patch behind the 'Loch Cruises' and 'Bonawe Iron Furnace' tourist signs near Loch Etive in Taynuilt).

And even if Loch Etive isn't sparkling in the sun, the gorse is sure to brighten your day (if its heavenly coconut scent doesn't).  

The colours of the mixed weather days where the skies are a tangle of grey and layers of light, those are truly special.  Artists' say there is nothing like the light of Scottish skies, and I have to agree.